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A Telegraph Article Called Nike's Plus-Size Mannequins 'a Lie.' Women Are Calling BS.


Earlier this week, The Telegraph published an article on Nike’s plus-size mannequins, calling them “obese,” “gargantuan,” and “a dangerous lie.” Not surprisingly, women on social media aren’t having it.

The world of sports—and workout gear, for that matter—hasn’t historically been the most size-inclusive place. Thankfully, that’s changing as major brands like Nike are stepping up to recognize the fact that women of all sizes can, and do, workout. Earlier this month Nike revamped it’s London flagship store, including plus-size models to show off the brand’s recently expanding range of sizes. (They also included para-sport models.)

It’s a powerful shift, but like any step towards progress, there are haters. The new Nike mannequin is “immense, gargantuan, vast. She heaves with fat,” writer Tanya Gold, said in her Telegraph article. “She is, in every measure, obese, and she is not readying herself for a run in her shiny Nike gear. She cannot run. She is, more likely, pre-diabetic and on her way to a hip replacement.”

This is of course bullshit. Weight is not a reliable indicator of health. Women of all weights, shapes and sizes run marathons, practice yoga, do CrossFit. They box, they swim, they play tennis, they bike, they climb mountains. Visit a gym, a spin class or the sidelines of a race and you’ll see all different kinds of bodies—all athletes, all deserving to be there.

The backlash to Gold’s article was swift, with women sharing photos and stories on social media of themselves working out, sporting plus-size gear, and delivering a resounding clapback to *The Telegraph*’s assertion that being plus-size and being an athlete are mutually exclusive. “Excluding diverse bodies is the opposite of progress,” model Iskra Lawrence wrote on Instagram. “Being skinny does not equal being healthy…I’m nearly 200lbs of ‘I will kick your a$$ in a sprint, boxing, jumping and lifting over half my body weight.'”

Here are some of the most powerful reactions to the fat-shaming article that prove women of all sizes can kick ass in the gym:

“Still want to tell me my body type can’t run?” one woman wrote.

“THIS is crazed bullying. It’s hate speech. We can’t allow people to discuss size like this. We wouldn’t allow it about race or religion in these huge publications,” actress and founder of i_weigh Jameela Jamil wrote on Instagram. “I’m disgusted and furious. Everyone at every size deserves to feel comfortable and good about themselves. And god dammit how can we shame people about their size and then try to take down mannequins for sportswear that include their size, inviting them at last into a part of the world they have been previously excluded from. So backwards, so grotesque and so disappointing.”

“As a non pre-diabetic size 18 woman who has always been big…I find that these types of rants are more of a reflection of how someone feels about themselves,” Katie Sturino, a plus-size blogger and founder of Megababe, posted on Instagram.

“As my friend and trainer @lubu22 says…you can still be thin and very unhealthy. Size does not fully determine health,” one woman wrote.

“That mannequin with the bigger body represents me, in fact my body is even bigger than that mannequin. People wonder why fate people don’t feel welcome in the fitness space – THIS IS WHY!,” one woman posted on Instagram. “I wish growing up I had seen mannequins like this and plus-size people represented in the fitness world. I find that seeing bodies like mine represented encourages me to move and take care of myself physically.”

“Tonight I swam 500m round a freezing cold reservoir and I loved it! The only thing that held me back was my wetsuit (the biggest women’s one I could get) garrotting my neck,” another woman posted. “I had the same experience trying to get clothes to fit when I was marathon training, and what makes it even more frustrating is putrid articles like this from the @telegraph (swipe right) today against @nike’s move to have realistic sized female mannequins to house their realistic sized gym wear. How are we expected to get fit and healthy if we can’t buy the clothes to bloody exercise in?”

“Why is it ok to publicly shame plus-size women who want to be more active and fit.Who want to work out, who want to wear a well known brand,” one woman wrote in an Instagram post.

“Plus girls work out every day,” another woman wrote.

“We’re told multiple types a day, every single day, that our bodies are only considered worthy if we shrink ourselves,” one woman posted. “Your body is worthy. At any size. And so is mine.”

“It is hard enough for women to find the courage and strength needed to start exercising and even harder to find clothes that fit us,” another woman wrote. “Nothing burns me up more than women tearing down other women, especially women who are trying to make a change in their lives…Your health and fitness is not dictated by your size (large or small) and it is also no one else’s business but yours.”



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Chromat's Becca McCharen-Tran on Curvy Mannequins, Size Inclusivity, and That Major Nordstrom Buy


Since its first New York Fashion Week show in 2016, Chromat has been an important voice in the industry’s size-inclusivity conversation. Its casting is always notably, radically diverse, with models of all shapes and backgrounds making their way down the runway in the brand’s futuristic swimsuits, as designer Becca McCharen-Tran envisioned them.

And though shoppers could find its full size run on the brand’s e-commerce, the retailers who stocked Chromat would usually stop buying the collections at large. That all changes this summer: In March, McCharen-Tran announced that Nordstrom had made a substantial buy from her Fall 2018, including the first order for Chromat swimsuits in sizes up to 3X. This year, more and more people can become #CHROMATBABES.

“It’s major,” the designer tells Glamour at the Savannah College of Art and Design’s SCADstyle conference, where she was speaking on a panel. “Our wholesale accounts dictate what goes into production and what kind of lives and dies on the runway—basically what you’ll see once and never see again.”

Before the Nordstrom buy, there was a disconnect between what people saw at Fashion Week and what actually ended up on racks in stores. “We’ve been in Barneys for a long time and they’ve really supported us over the years, but their size ends at large,” she explains. To have a major stockist invest in its larger offerings represents something much more monumental: “Nordstrom is for sure at the forefront of size inclusivity in retail, so I do see that, finally, that consumer is getting more options in the high fashion space.”

PHOTO: Noam Galai

A model on the runway at Chromat’s Fall 2018 show.

Shortly after McCharen-Tran revealed the Nordstrom news, Refinery29 reported on behind-the-scenes images of Chromat’s swim production process (posted to the brand’s Instagram Story), including the 2X fit mannequins the team uses to make its size-inclusive swimsuits.

“People really responded to [the mannequins] and I was like, ‘I’ve seen this before!'” McCharen-Tran tells us. “That one picture of that curvy mannequin got re-posted on so many other accounts.”

The designer procured hers at Alvanon, a New York-based company that uses aggregate data including sizing and body scans to create the figure. “We’d been getting fit feedback for years from the curve models that walked for us on the runway, and other friends and fit models that we work with on our plus size patterns,” McCharen-Tran says of how she landed on the 2X shape.

Chromat - Runway - February 2018 - New York Fashion Week: The Shows

PHOTO: Noam Galai

A model on the runway at Chromat’s Fall 2018 show.

Alvanon made two mannequins for Chromat: a standard-size medium (used for measuring sizes extra small through large) and a 2X (for sizes extra large through 3X). The designer is also ensuring that the factory producing Chromat’s size-inclusive swim run understands the nuances of making a garment for different body shapes: “There [are] a lot of different little techniques, like making the straps wider for bigger sizes or adding a kind of power mesh into some places so [there’s] more compression if that’s what you want.”

The online reaction to Chromat’s mannequins highlighted another aspect of the inclusive fashion conversation that hasn’t received as much attention as, say, body-diverse runways: the lack of resources for designers who want to make their garments for a wider range of customers—mannequins, patterns, manufacturers, and so forth. And McCharen-Tran believes the access to should start with design students: “I think in the school process and educational process, those mannequins need to start there and continue.”

Chromat - Runway - February 2018 - New York Fashion Week: The Shows

PHOTO: Noam Galai

A model on the runway at Chromat’s Fall 2018 show.

At the moment, fashion schools are only just starting to incorporate body forms for non-sample size garments. (“Even [on my visit] at SCAD, I didn’t seen any plus-size mannequins,” McCharen-Tran notes.) Though, the need is becoming apparent for some institutions: “I remember going to Parsons and asking about their sizes, and they are starting to add more 16’s and 18’s within the educational program to where students can kind of drape on different bodies,” she says.

With the news of the Nordstrom buy and the excitement surrounding Chromat’s curvy mannequins, McCharen-Tran hopes that perceptions of plus-size bodies will continue to evolve, along with the products available to them in stores.

“I think it’s the stigma around plus size that needs to be abolished, not the definition itself,” she says. “I think people will always need to know what size range is available no matter what you call it. Hopefully, the stigma around larger bodies in the fashion industry at large is changing. That’s what really needs to be exploded and expanded upon.”

The Savannah College of Art and Design paid for the writer’s travel and accommodations for the purpose of writing this story.

Related Stories:

Jeffrey Campbell and Curve Model La’shaunae Steward Are Releasing Size-Inclusive Shoes

For Young Fashion Labels, the Runway Is a Place for Inclusivity

Chromat Just Sent Cheetos Down the NYFW Runway, and We’re Here for It





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