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I tolerate pain pretty well, but those sharp twinges really hurt. “It’s actually the ultrasound gel popping,” he tells me. “Like if you put oil in a frying pan, and the oil pops.” I squirm, but I’m determined to be as tough as I can in the name of a firmer jaw line.

Thankfully, the pain lasts only for a moment, and by the time I feel like I can’t take much more of it, he’s moved the laser on to a different part of my face. I’m normally a talkative patient, but even I’m not up to being too chatty. This is new to me.

I know what you’re probably thinking: If you’re going to submit yourself to any kind of pain—what does it cost? The price differs depending on who you go to, but Dr. Dugar says it’s around $800 a session for your face (Exilis laser skin tightening can be performed on other body parts as well). Like with most procedures that recommend multiple treatments, the more you sign up for at a time, the lower the cost. So far I’m just doing one session, but if I notice a visible difference, I’ll consider coming back for more—pain be damned.

Dr. Dugar likens the frequency of visits to when you were a teenager and could go to the gym once a week and stay in shape. Of course, as we age and metabolism slows, it takes more effort to maintain your physique. Dr. Dugar says I’ll see results for a few weeks at least with one treatment. After that, “the key is repetitive treatments”—usually one a month, for anywhere up to six to 10 sessions. It’s costly, but perhaps not much more than if you swap out bi-weekly facials, regular blow-outs, and expensive skin creams.

About 20 minutes later, the whole thing was done. He says he spent eight minutes on each side of my face with the laser, applying the highest intensity of the wattage to treat my jowls and jaw line. This is done in order “to get a little bit more stimulation of the collage to tighten.” My face is pretty red, but Dr. Dugar says that will reduce dramatically over the next few hours.

While Exilis prides itself on no downtime, I also wouldn’t necessarily want to go out to a big event or on a date the same night. If there was ever an excuse to stay in and watch TV, this is it. Still, Dr. Dugar tells me that I shouldn’t be afraid of doing my nighttime skin routine. “You can do everything normal because this is not a resurfacing laser,” he says.

Puffing up my face so you can get a clearer look at the redness in the immediate aftermath.

Jessica Radloff

Before I leave, Dr. Dugar applies a gold cooling mask to help calm my skin (which in all fairness, was breaking out pretty bad these last few days). The cooling sensation is so calming I’m tempted to stay here all day. Also, I look like C3-PO.

gold facial treatment mask — Jessica Radloff

I say my goodbyes and thank Dr. Dugar and his staff; he says to call or email with any questions, and instead of pushing a second treatment on me, he says to take a few weeks to see how I like the results. It’s up to me if I want to continue for more. By the time I get to my car, I notice the redness in my face has disappeared quite considerably. (I’m still sticking to my plan of ordering in and watching TV, though).

facial treatment makeupfree selfie — Jessica Radloff

The next day, aside from a patch of red skin near my chin, there’s barely any noticeable trace of the treatment. And if I forgot to mention, once the treatment was done, any sharp pain that I felt was gone. So if you can tolerate a few seconds of extreme heat, you’ll be OK.

facial treatment morning after selfie — The morning after the Exilis 360 laser, with just a bit of redness by my chin. The treatment is not recommended for anyone pregnant, or with a metal implant, like a pacemaker.

Jessica Radloff

Selfie one day after facial treatment — The next day, with makeup on

Jessica Radloff

By the afternoon, I’ve applied a full face of makeup and as crazy as it sounds, I actually feel that my face is a bit firmer. It looks it, too. I feel like I’ve gone off to some five-star resort and spa for the week, and I honestly can’t remember the last time I said that (or even meant it). In other words, I’m a fan.

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Like chalky sunscreen and limited foundation shades, hair removal lasers didn’t use to work well for women with medium to dark skin. But thanks to the growing awareness around inclusivity, along with advances in technology, those of us who were told for years that laser hair removal was a no-go due to our skin tone are now finally able to get the treatment.

First, the lowdown on lasers: They beam intense light at the follicle, causing permanent damage so hair no longer grows. But because they work by targeting the pigment in the hair—it’s the contrast between darkness in the hair and lighter skin that helps the laser focus on its bullseye—the ideal candidate has traditionally been someone with fair skin and dark hair.

For women of color, laser hair removal has been a gamble: devices weren’t sophisticated enough to completely distinguish between the pigment in the skin and the hair, meaning that they could potentially cause dark and light spots, blisters, and even scarring, in the skin surrounding the follicle, says Robyn Gmyrek, MD, dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology. But now, there are smarter lasers that can be used in a much more precise—and safe—way, making getting rid of unwanted fuzz a reality for a wider range of skin tones. Here’s how to get it right.

Which Lasers to Look For

The first and most important thing you need to know is how Nd:YAG and diode lasers work for darker skin. In recent years, the Nd:YAG (or just “YAG”) has become increasingly popular, as it’s as foolproof as it gets. “The wavelength of this laser goes deeper into the skin than a diode,” says Gmyrek. “So it more successfully bypasses the pigmentation present in the skin.” Because the YAG basically bypasses the melanin in your skin, it’s the safest option for dark skin. It’s one of two lasers Shobha Tummala, founder and CEO of Shobha hair removal, offers in her salons. (She’ll also use it for fair-skinned clients who’ve recently gotten a tan.)

But the diode has its perks, even though it might be more complicated for anyone above a 4 on the Fitzpatrick scale (the standard measure of skin type used by dermatologists, with 1 being the lightest and most sun-sensitive and 6 being the darkest). “In darker-skinned patients, the diode laser energy has to be delivered in a slower manner per pulse, leaving more time for skin to cool,” explains Gmyrek. “It also has an instant cooling device that protects pigment from overheating and being damaged.” The Lumenis LightSheer laser, one of the most popular diode lasers out there, even has a suction mechanism to distract your attention from the pain. “I would overall say that it’s the least painful,” says Estee Williams, MD, a dermatologist in New York City.

You’ll want to minimize the chances that you’ll develop the most common laser-related side effects for dark skin: hyperpigmentation, or dark spots, and hypopigmentation, in which the skin pigment lightens. According to Williams, hypopigmentation can be harder to treat (although Gmyrek notes that it can sometimes resolve on its own), so ask your laser removal expert to do a test patch if you think you might be prone to it—just to be on the safe side.

What You’ll Spend

Expect to need at least six sessions. Although darker skin can sometimes require more treatments than fair, “everyone’s different,” says Tummala. The downside is that the cost can add up quickly, as many providers charge by the session. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons’s 2017 stats, the average cost per session was $293—but it varies wildly depending on what part of the body you’re targeting. (Generally: The larger the area, the higher the price.)

At many practices, there’s no difference in cost between the YAG and diode. Some research shows that the diode might be slightly more effective at actually removing dark hair on dark skin—it could also be worthwhile if you’re closer to 3 on the Fitzpatrick scale and have a low pain tolerance. But Gmyrek believes that the Nd:YAG is the safest bet overall.

How to Prep Properly

Now is not—we repeat, not—the time to get a coupon through a discount site. The provider (and their expertise) matters. “I was willing to pay a premium and see a professional with great reviews,” says Marlene, 28, who had laser hair removal on her underarms. A pro who has extensive experience with women of color is essential.

Not only should you expect the same type of screening and forms as you would from any medical professional, it should also include your ethnicity, as different ethnicities—regardless of skin tone—react differently to lasers. Your skin may appear to be a 3 or 4 on the Fitzpatrick scale but if you’re, say, Latin or Asian, it could react to the laser as a 6 would.

Once you’re scheduled, coddle your skin. Stop using skincare products with harsh ingredients, including glycolic and salicylic acids, benzoyl peroxide, and any retinoids (including tretinoin and adapalene), at least five days before your treatment. “These can all make your skin more sensitive to the laser energy,” says Gmyrek.

Go full vampire and keep out of the sun—or, at the very least, use proper protection. (That’s broad spectrum SPF 30 or more; tinted moisturizer or foundation with SPF doesn’t count.) A tan equals more pigment, which can spur a different (and potentially dangerous) reaction to the laser. “If you’re even slightly tanned, inform the laser provider so that the treatment energy can be lowered or the treatment, rescheduled,” says Gmyrek.

What to Do Post-Treatment

Side effects can still happen—but you’ve got options. “For irritation or redness, hydrocortisone can help to resolve the inflammation,” says Gmyrek. “For an acne-like eruption, or folliculitis, use topical antibiotics.” For any hyperpigmentation, try a topical cream for dark spots, which your derm can prescribe.“It’ll help normalize the skin color,” explains Gmyrek.

But the low-stubble life is worth the risks. For women who once felt the need to shave daily, they say the minimal upkeep has been well worth it. “My overall experience was great,” says Marlene. The best part? She didn’t experience burns or pigmentation problems, proving just how far lasers have come.

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