How far in advance do you plan the look?

The second I see the dress I start obsessing. Sometimes I’ll see it on the day of, which is not ideal, and sometimes it can be weeks ahead of time. The second I know what that dress is, I’m thinking about her and what will work, and zooming in on it. I’ll go down in my studio swatching products and even trying things on myself. Usually I’m down there until 1 A.M. I want her to feel like the best version of herself so it’s my responsibility to do whatever I can to help her achieve that, and I take it very seriously.

Do you tend to make last-minute decisions and changes?

I try not to do too many things last-minute because that takes time and it would be messy. Ideally, when she sits down for makeup it’s worked out and laid out and ready to go.

But with the eyeliner, for instance, I was going back and forth about what color to use at the lash line—in the bodice, you could kind of pull out any color—but I kept veering toward purple in my head because I love purple with a green eye. Then, when I saw her manicure for the night, it was a little bit fuchsia and it told me I was going in the right direction, it tied in beautifully.

You manage to keep the makeup classic and beautiful but with clever, modern twists. What’s the secret?

It’s whether the girls can carry off a little ‘something something.’ It’s not always appropriate, but when it is, it’s really about the wear–that they feel confident to carry it off. If she didn’t feel confident about the color, no matter how subtle I make it, then I’m not going to do it. It’s also about the event. For instance, what I would do for the Met Gala, wouldn’t be what I would do for the Golden Globes. The Globes are generally an event that can have an element of fun to them, but it’s an acting event, it’s not a fashion event, whereas the Met Gala, which is about fashion, would be a whole other vibe.

What are your favorite products to use on Margot?

I never use any mascara other than the Chanel Le Volume mascara–and not just on Margot, on everyone–because I need a mascara that’s going to go on the lash but that’s not going to flake. I can’t be worrying about the mascara flaking when I send them out to an awards and that mascara is very reliable.

Then I love the Chanel Waterproof Brow Pencil, the light blond is the perfect color for Margot, it’s the perfect texture and it serves me well.

My other major go-to product is the Stylo Ombre Et Contour in 12 Contour Clair. That product I pretty much use on everyone when I do makeup, like everyone, because it’s the perfect taupey color that can give structure to your eyes without looking heavy or makeup-y. I can give a little bit of contour to the crease of the eye or under the eye, or wherever the eye needs a bit of pushback. Those are my biggies. After that it’s like, let’s play.

This story originally appeared on Glamour UK.

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