Looking back, the first piece of jewelry you were ever given probably had something to do with your birthstone. Maybe it was a teensy pair of studs, or a delicate ring as a gift on a momentous birthday or holiday—or perhaps you sprung for a class ring that came personalized with your stone, which at the time felt like a totally necessary investment; you might still have those pieces today, though they probably feel more sentimental than an everyday staple at this point. Jewelry may be, in essence, an accessory, it’s also meant to be personal—and what’s more personal than your birthstone?

As these things go, gemstones have made a huge comeback in the jewelry world. Designers have been incorporating them in fresh and inventive ways—rubies to accent a pair of studs, amethysts to anchor a two-finger ring, and so on. (In many cases, these come set and are accompanied by the Grande Dame of gems, the diamond, to create nuance.) If you’re in need of a refresher on birthstones, let designers Jennie Kwon, Paige Novick, Lizzie Mandler, Anna Sheffield, and Erin Sachse of Eriness Jewelry fill you in. On top of being skilled in design, each is a pro when it comes to understanding the significance of each stone (including the healing power and chakra—or the center of energy—that each stone is synonymous with!) and offers ingenious advice for rocking your birthstone in a modern—and non-cheesy—way. Here’s what they have to say.

First things first, know what you’re buying into when you’re shopping for gemstones: Mandler explains how colored stones, especially smaller ones, are often treated with heat to enhance the color; others can be synthetic or dyed to achieve that effect, especially in pieces available at a lower price point. In either case, these methods can make the stone “less durable than the real version,” so look into the make-up of your jewelry before you buy. “Heat treated stones are generally stable and the color won’t change overtime,” she adds.

Don’t feel like you have to stick to your birthstone: “I have one hard and fast rule: If it’s not a hell yes, it’s a hell no!”, says Novick, noting that there’s no need to limit yourself to your birthstone if it doesn’t resonate with you. Instead, shop for whatever gem you’re most drawn to. “It’s all about an individual connecting to a stone or a particular piece of jewelry,” she adds. “The more you personally connect with a gemstone(s) the more you will benefit from its power.” Plus, many stones—such as opal, pearl, alexandrite, sapphire, spinel, tourmaline, and diamonds—come in a variety of shades, so if you’re not sold on the most popular hue, you can find an alternative. “Play around with non-traditional color ways of your birthstone to create a piece that doesn’t scream ‘birthstone jewelry’,” recommends Mandler.

There’s power behind pairing different gemstones, too: Novick explains how pink and green tourmaline complement each other and coordinate with the Heart Chakra. Peridot and tanzanite have a calming effect when worn together, she adds; and and ruby or garnet, when mixed with orange citrine, speaks to passion and creativity. So think outside the box (and outside your assigned stone) when finding the right accessory for you.

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