In theory, contour seems like the dreamweaver of beauty techniques. A dusting of powder under your cheekbones, a slight shadow on the side of your forehead, and if Instagram is to believed, just like that you’re a sculpted piece of artwork with cut-glass features. In reality? No. Contouring: Game of Shadows sounds like a YA franchise, but it’s on the money—this stuff is hard. So when I sat down in a makeup artist’s chair at an Artis event a few weeks ago, I was determined to leave with her most basic, dumbed-down, 100-percent-can’t-mess-up contouring trick. What I learned: contouring’s golden rule is legitimately foolproof.

According to makeup artist Liani Reyes, the trick has actually been in front of us this whole time. Just by force of habit, I used to follow classic Instagram vlogger protocol and suck in my cheeks before dusting contour powder in the hollows (you know, the “fishy face” method). While that helps with general placement, Reyes says the technique actually has most people extending their shadow too far forward, which is how contour veers from believable into the land of, “ah, everyone can see I tried to do this and failed.” You wouldn’t naturally have a shadow fall super far down your face, so when you do, it loses the placement that makes contouring convincing. Not trying to say “we’ve been lied to,” but fishy face: how could you?

The rule Reyes lives by instead is stupid easy. Pull a fishy face again, and ready your contour brush. Then, sweep your powder into the hollow under your cheekbone, but stop blending directly below where your eyebrow ends. Done. It’s just that easy. As Reyes explains, the imaginary eyebrow barrier is like a bowling lane bumper for your contour. And I can confirm: after using the technique for a few weeks, I haven’t looked like I have dirt on my face once. I look like I have cheekbones, and it’s not stressful. It’s incredible.

As for what contouring product you choose, I’m ride or die for Kevyn Aucoin’s The Sculpting Contour Powder, which hits the ideal gray-toned brown to look like a shadow on my cool skin. In general, makeup artists like Sir John say that your contouring product of choice shouldn’t be more than two colors deeper than your skin tone. Light to medium complexions should look for taupe and similar gray brown shades, while women with dark skin tones should go warmer and pick up slightly reddish options like Benefit’s Hoola Cream-to-Powder Quickie Contour Stick.

Deciding between textures, it’s your call. Sheer-leaning powders like the Aucoin are good for beginners, while creams are more dramatic if you’re heading into a night of dim lighting. Whichever product you go with, rest easy: with your eyebrows to guide you, it’s tough to mess up.

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–I Contour My Boobs, and It’s Honestly the Best Thing Ever

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