NAILS
It was an equal opportunity beauty moment at Vivienne Westwood for Fall 2015. “The theme of this show is unisex,” explains Marian Newman, the fashion week “Queen of Nails[1].” “Boys are girls and girls are boys and boys are boys—you know, that sort of thing—and everything else in between!” So what’s a unisex nail? “What we are doing for the nails bears no relationship whatsoever to the collection or even the hair, but it’s perfect for Vivianne’s glittery catwalk.” Glitter being the key word here. The models’ nails were dripping in glitter in every colour imaginable. “We worked with all the M.A.C glitter polishes and loose glitter we could find and we just randomly applied it to all the nails. There’s no pattern at all. Think of it this way: it’s like children playing in a glitter factory and they want to try every colour they can find. We’ve tried to make them as blingy as possible.”
MAKE UP
“You could say our inspiration comes from the idea of a Jean Cocteau line drawing,” explains makeup artist Val Garland. Many of the models look like they’re frowning. “We are using all M.A.C products, their pencils, liner, aqua colours, and dominant colours like black or brown.” So why the frown? “We’ve kind of done everything here at Westwood over the years when it comes to makeup. I thought, ‘What could we do that is a little bit of something, a little bit of nothing.. I know! Let’s do a frown!’”
HAIR
“The whole thing is Unisex; it’s the coming together of men and women,” explains Sam McKnight. “They look a little bit feral. For inspiration, Vivienne shows me some pictures of ragamuffin kids with African braids that looked like they could be street kids from the Victorian times. It’s very anti-hair, really.” To achieve that matted, dirty textured look, McKnight sprayed the hair with a mix of sugar water. Sweet.
READ MORE
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What is a feminist approach to wearing makeup?[2][3]
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About Noreen Flanagan
Here’s how a fashion and beauty fantasy day for me might unfold. First, I’d meet Alber Elbaz for an espresso and a croissant. Then Stella McCartney and I would go for a run to work off my bakery sins with Alber. At home, Guido Palau would be waiting to do my hair and then the charming Peter Philips would perform a makeup miracle. I’d then slip into a shift dress from Céline (it’s Look 10 from the fall collection, if you’re curious.) Because I’d be lunching with Haider Ackermann, I’d likely wear one of his long woven jackets. I’m thinking Look 14 would be perfect. Later that night, I’d have cocktails with Raf Simons wearing Look 5—or perhaps Look 3. And then—if I have the stamina—I’d join Karl at one of his swish afterparties. Yes, that’s pretty much my fantasy day.
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