Anyone who’s had to shop for DDD+ bras can attest: If your cups runneth over, so to speak, it’s can be harder to find a style that fits your needs—whether that means having support, wanting to show off cleavage, or simply feeling comfortable. Many brands don’t accommodate cup sizes in the E, F, G, and H range; and variety is lacking when it comes to fashion-forward styles. (Let’s see some variety with lace, color, and design value, yeah?) Rather than accept defeat, you deserve a good—no, great!—bra that can meet all of your demands.

You already know the importance of a professional fitting, of building a bra wardrobe of a few key styles, and of being open to investing a little bit more in your underwear drawer to get what you need out of it. But what about the little construction details in your bra that make all the difference, or recognizing the tell-tale signs of when your band has been overworn? Glamour went to the lingerie experts for more detailed advice to aid large-breasted shoppers with their bra shopping endeavors. Check out what the experts—Margaret Quinn, Marketing Manager for Addition Elle; Ra’el Cohen, Head of Design at ThirdLove; Jessica Pfister, Vice President of Le Mystère; Lyn Lewis, CEO of Journelle; Dawn Kenney, National Consultant Manager for Wacoal; Helene Morris, designer of Lonely; and Willy Mrasek, Creative Director of the Felina Group—had to say.

Accept that you’re likely wearing the wrong size. It’s incredibly common for folks to be buying and wearing the wrong bra size—and, if you have large breasts, experts say it’s usually because you’re trying to squeeze into a bra that’s too small or not supportive enough. (Kenney and Lewis both say that the majority of busty shoppers buy a bra in too big of a band size and too small of a cup size.) A few of the tell-tale signs: bra straps that are constantly falling, underwires that dig into your boob, cups that gape… If any or all of those feel all too familiar, Lewis suggests finding a “sister size” to the one you’ve already been wearing—you’ll come across many guides to landing on that magic number online.

Really pay attention to the band. Lewis notes that eighty percent of support comes from the band to support the weight of the bust. It should fit evenly from front to back and not move or shift when you raise your arms, and should lay flat across your back without rising up (if it does, that means it’s too big, since the weight of the breasts is pulling it up). Wear your bra on the loosest hook, so that when the band stretches out over time you can get more wear out of it by simply tightening. (Per Cohen, you’ll know you’re wearing the right band size when you can slip two fingers underneath the back of it.)

Know what a proper fit feels like. The cups should always fit smoothly across the breasts, without gaping, overflow, or digging into the tissue. (If there is any bulging, “the cup is too small or your straps are too tight,” notes Pfister.) The gore—aka. the piece of material between the two cups—should lay flat on your chest, hitting at the center chest bone, while the underwire should follow the perimeter of the breast tissue and rest on the ribcage. The straps should never slip (you should only be able to fit two fingers under it, says Pfister) or dig into your shoulders (they’re not the ones providing the support, after all—that’s what the band is there for).

Swap out bras on a semi-regular basis. Experts agree that, on average, you should buy a new bra every six months. Like your favorite shoes, they wear out and stretch out with frequent use, explains Pfister, adding that clear signs a bra has run its course include slipping straps, a “double bubble” at the cup, frayed edges, exposed underwires, and, of course, not getting as much lift as you once did. To get the most use out of your bra, you’ll want to maintain a whole lingerie wardrobe: Because fibers need enough time to rest and pull back after every wear to maintain functionality, it’s recommended to alternate between bras. (Cohen recommends having at least three in regular rotation.)

Consider your breast shape. When shopping for a new bra, Lewis says it’s important to think about not only the size of your bust, but also the shape of your breasts. If your boobs are teardrop-shaped, for instance, a demi or balconette style might offer you a good fit; if they’re round, a plunge or triangular-shaped silhouette might feel more supportive, as it pulls the breast tissue in on the sides. If you have a full bust, unlined bras are typically the most comfortable as they “round out the shape of the breast and have a flattening effect,” according to Lewis. Here’s a helpful breakdown of some of the different breast types.

Think about fabrics. It’s a myth that heavy, industrial-feeling bras are the only supportive lingerie option when you have big boobs. Brands are finally (finally!) experimenting with a range of fabrics, like lace and mesh, that don’t sacrifice comfort or structure for larger busts. The secret is making sure that the bra, regardless of what it’s made of, provides good wing support—in other words, that the fabric panels on the sides of the bra (the ones that connect the cups to the clasp in the back) are strong and well-designed, so that they can hold up a larger bust. Other design considerations to look for include: underwire or padded cups to add shape and definition; side boning to stabilize the band; interior slings to help with projection and natural shaping; and padded straps to manage the volume of a larger cup and offer a comfortable lift.

Ahead, we lay out the expert’s tips on a range of bra types for various wants and needs.

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