​Six young men dance arm-in-arm, stomping as they move in a tight, precise circle.

The men kneel and clap as a dozen female dancers float and swirl and kick across the stage at a recent practice in their Saskatoon studio.

This Ukrainian folk dance is called the Holubka. It’s familiar territory for the dancers and their bouncing, gesticulating choreographer, Serhij Koroliuk.

Three months ago, the group faced a wave of accusations on social media for one of their other routines called Kaleidoscope. They said the dance was created to honour Indigenous people and other cultures, but critics labeled it “cultural appropriation.”

Ukrainian dance performance at Saskatoon Folkfest0:54

The term is popping up with increasing frequency — Halloween costumes, yoga classes, music sampling and author Joseph Boyden’s ancestry have all stirred debate. When is it OK to share, borrow or take elements of other cultures?

Koroliuk, as well as the Indigenous entrepreneur who first posted the video, Janelle Pewapsconias, agreed to sit down with CBC News to talk about Kaleidoscope, the fallout, and a surprising twist.

Janelle Pewapsconias

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Indigenous entrepreneur and poet Janelle Pewapsconias (Bridget Yard)

Janelle Pewapsconias rushes into the coffee shop and says she can only stay for half an hour.

Founder and CEO of Neeched Up Games, she’s been working on a new version of her Indigenous and Canadian trivia challenge. She’s an active member of the Indigenous Poet’s Society and gave a recent TEDx speech in Calgary entitled “Walk a Mile in our Moccasins.”

Most importantly, she has to head off to pick up her son from after school care.

During this and other later conversations, Pewapsconias explained her take on cultural appropriation and many other issues.

Some have said it’s never OK for Ukrainians to dance powwow. Pewapsconias doesn’t go that far— her point is that this particular performance was disrespectful to Indigenous people.

That August night at Folkfest, Pewapsconias and her sister had enjoyed the dances and food at other pavilions, and hoped to do the same at the Ukrainian.

When Kaleidoscope began, she said everything changed.

She noticed the blanket contained flags of many immigrant nations but none from Treaty Six or the Métis Nation. The Indigenous dance costumes were partly plastic.

Pewapsconias noted that for decades, First Nations people were banned from dancing powwow and performing their spiritual ceremonies.

It was part of a massive effort to eradicate Indigenous culture that included residential schools, the pass system and the Sixties Scoop.

She and her family are finally reclaiming their culture, so she was shocked to see non-Indigenous people taking liberties with their traditions.

“It just immediately went from having a fun, OK night to feeling powerless, feeling angry,” she said.

“I feel this way. The people I’m with feel this way. I need to share this on social media and call this out. So that’s what I did.”

Serhij Koroliuk

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Pavlychenko Folklorique Ensemble choreographer Serhij Koroliuk. (Bridget Yard)